Acanceh, the most impressive mascarons of Yucatan
Located in the Yucatecan town of Acanceh the beautiful ruins of Acanceh a pleasant surprise for the traveler. In this post we will tell you all about it.
We visited the Acanceh ruins many years ago by chance. On the way to the Cuzamá cenotes we crossed through this town, and from the car we saw the Mayan temple that can be seen from the park. It was not very attractive, it looked like an unsignificant mound.
However, our curiosity made us stop and that is how we discovered this beautiful Mayan settlement. We had no idea that what awaited us at the Acanceh ruins, was an archaeological area of great importance and beauty.
In fact, it is one of the most important ancient Mayan settlements in the north of Yucatán, and the masks preserved in this Pyramid, the one seen from the town square, are the most impressive you can see in Yucatán.
Acanceh is located in an area of cenotes such as the Cuzamá cenotes and the Homún cenotes, as well as several Haciendas, so it can be the perfect stop if you are venturing out in interesting area east of Mérida. Keep reading to learn how to get there.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF ACANCEH
According to the INAH (The National institute of Archaeology and history in Mexico), the Mayan city of Acanceh was founded in the Preclassic Mayan period (700 – 50 BC). Its good commercial relations with its neighbors Dzibilchaltún, Oxkintok and Mayapán allowed it to flourish and prosper throughout the Classic period (250-1000 AD). Its decline corresponds to the Postclassic, from around 1000 AD.
CHRONOLOGY: 700 BC:- 1000 AD. Late Classic to Late Postclassic
In the history of time cities always become stronger thanks to trade. And Acanceh was no exception. This city covered about 3 square kilometers, and included around 300 structures.
INAH – National Institute of Anthropology and History: public body dedicated to the investigation, conservation, protection, and dissemination of the prehistoric, anthropological, archaeological, and historical cultural heritage of Mexico.
The structures that stand out the most in the Mayan settlement of Acanceh are two:
- The Pyramid, which can be seen from the town square, on 21st Street. Here is where you find the INAH booth, where you pay the entrance fee.
- The Palacio de los Estucos, on 18th Street, a couple of blocks from the Pyramid. You must be accompanied by the INAH worker to open the premises for you.
The Pyramid and the mascarons of Acanceh
This building measuring 30 meters on each side and with a height of 15 meters, which at first glance looks very elementary from the Plaza, preserves the most impressive masks that you will see in Yucatán. They are an absolute and beautiful surprise.
The Acanceh masks measure between 2.25 and 3.50 m high by 3.05 and 3.72 m wide. You will see most of the stucco-modeled masks deteriorated, only two of the five that exist are better preserved.
As time went by, they deteriorated greatly. You have to think about the damage that the tropical climate, the heat, the abundant rain and the wind does, damage the stucco and limestone of the Peninsula. Stucco is not a rough and imperishable material, especially if the Acanceh masks were exposed to the elements, as is the case.
To give you a term of comparison, the Mayan stelae found in Copán or Quiriguá (two of the great cities in the South of the Mayan world), are better preserved than those in Yucatán. What is the cause of that? Those here are carved from limestone, while those from Copan are carved from volcanic stone, which is much more resistant to inclement weather.
None of the figureheads keep their nose, unfortunately. It is a mystery, although it indicates that it was an act of vandalism. There is a lot of looting in the Mayan world.
The Stucco Palace (Palacio de los Estucos)
The stucco palace is 50 meters wide and six meters high, and has a carved stone frieze with figures that evoke the Teotihuacan style. The influence of the great capital Teotihuacán is seen in several Mayan cities.
The same deterioration has occurred with the frescoes and carvings of the Palace of the Stuccos as with the masks, and now we can barely appreciate the art of the ancient Maya. Luckily, the INAH workers have some photocopies where we can better appreciate the detail of the painted stuccos.
The motifs on the frieze of the Palacio de los Estucos are birds, prey, squirrels and bats. It is very common to decorate facades with animals.
Did you know?
The Mayan architectural style of Acanceh Ruins
Acanceh is not considered an archaeological zone of the Puuc Route because it is located further away. The great jewel of the Puuc style is undoubtedly Uxmal, which was the regional capital of the Puuc.
Altough we can find some of the Puuc style in the arquitecture of Acanceh, as reflected by the carved stones of the Pyramid, it is not pure Puuc, but a mix of other architectural styles.
Meaning of Acanceh
The toponymic Acanceh (pronounced “akankej”) means in the Mayan language ‘deer moan or groan’ which comes from the words Áakam (akan), ‘groan’ and kéej (keh), ‘deer’.
Here is an interesting fact about Acanceh that not many know
The acanceh masks are the most beautiful you will see in the Yucatán state. It is something really unique. There are other Mayan masks in Mexico such as those of Kohunlich in Quintana Roo, or those of Calakmul or Becán in Campeche, but in Yucatán the Acanceh Mascarons are the jewel of the masks.
HOW TO GET TO ACANCEH
Acanceh Ruins are located:
► 30 km (18,6 miles) of Merida (35 min by car)
► 60 km (37 miles) of Izamal (1 hr by car)
MEXICO STATE: Yucatan
How to get Acanceh by car
From the city of Mérida, take State Highway 180 towards Valladolid and after a few kilometers go to the right (south) on Highway 184 towards Felipe Carrillo Puerto (Chan Santa Cruz), which leads to Acanceh.
Once in Acanceh town, on 21st Street is the structure of the Pyramid that can be seen from the Plaza, here is the toll booth. (here is the link to Google Maps)
Renting a car on the Riviera Maya is something you would want to do if you want to be free to move around and discover all the other amazing sites in the region.
It’s a relatively safe place to drive, the roads are good and the sites are well-marked. Therefore traveling by car is a very good option.
However, remember, if you decide to get a car rental, make sure you include full insurance with 0 deductible so you will drive with no stress.
➣ When renting a car in Mexico we recommend Discover Cars because on their website you can compare different companies and their prices and you can choose between their car insurance or the ones offered by the car rental directly, or both.
How to get to Acanceh Ruins by local transport from Merida
Buses leave from Mérida and take you to Acanceh. The bus station for Acanceh buses is Northeast Terminal, on 67th Street between 52nd and 50th Streets. Schedules 7:45, 9:15, 10:45, 12:30 and 2:30 p.m.
Another option is to go by “colectivos” (mini van). However they leave when they are full of passengers and don’t have an exact departure time. They are located in front of the bus station.
Both cost about 35 pesos and take 1 hour and a little more.
How to get to Acanceh Ruins by taxi
You will have to ask and agree on a price with the taxi drivers if you want to go from Mérida or wherever you are to Acanceh. Taxis have official prices per destination, but it does not include waiting if you want to return by taxi. It is best to agree on the price before getting in the taxi.
ACANCEH MAP
We have already seen that the Acanceh ruins are divided into two large groups. Check out the map here below so you can better locate them yourself. The toll booth is located on 21st Street, where the one known as the Pyramid is located, which can be seen from the plaza.
You must go here first, and then the INAH worker will accompany you to the Palacio de los Estucos if you want to visit it. This Palace is on 18th Street, very close, but it is closed, so you must be accompanied.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION ABOUT ACANCEH RUINS
We like to be practical and share updated information, as travelers we know how to appreciate these details 🌎🙏
Facilities
You only have a small Ticket booth. Nothing else.
Acanceh opening hours
Open every day from 8 am to 5 pm.
Acanceh entrance fee
75 MXN for person
Also note:
✔ On Sundays, the entrance is free for Mexicans and foreigners with permanent residence.
✔ Access to the Mayan ruins is open every day for kids up to 12 years old, students, teachers, and seniors (must show ID).
FREE ENTRY FOR:
Mexicans •Over 60 years old (with official ID) •Retired and pensioners (with official institution credential) •Teachers and students (with an official credential from the Mexican Educational System) •Children up to 12 years old •Researchers and interns (with INAH permission)
Mexicans and foreigners • People with Disabilities
Special permission is required to enter with a tripod and professional camera. Drone flying is not allowed
How much time do we need to visit Acanceh
If you only visit the site that can be seen from the Plaza de Acanceh, in less than an hour you will be ready. If you visit the other space, count an hour and a half in total.
INSIDER TIPS– Most travelers don’t know that there are two places to visit in Acanceh. You must talk to the person who charges the entrance fee to escort you to the other structure, El Palacio de los Estucos.
The best of Acanceh
Seeing the beautiful stucco masks and frieze is a very nice way to appreciate ancient Mayan art; they are unique windows into the past.
Looking at the Acanceh church from the pyramid gives us a feeling of confrontation between two cultures, and two historical times. These kinds of contrasts are always noteworthy and interesting to experience.
The worst of Acanceh
The 3 times we have visited Acanceh, we have always been lucky enough to be able to go to the Palacio de los Estucos. We don’t know what the logistics are like when there are several visitors in the facility, because the INAH worker who charges the entrance fee is the one who accompanies you to the other place.
We leave it as a doubt, let’s see if any travelers can tell us how your experience was with that 🙏🏽😊
WHAT YOU CAN VISIT NEARBY
- Zona arqueológica Mayapán: 24 km/ 15 miles 20 minutes by car
- Cenotes Cuzamá: 18 km/ 11 miles 30 minutes by car
- Cenotes Homún: 20 km/ 12.4 miles 35 minutes by car
- Cenote Paraíso Papakal: 22 km/ 13.6 miles 40 minutes by car. You can also visit the beautiful gothic church in Eknakan very photogenic.
Where to stay near Acanceh
Acanceh is near the Homun cenotes, so it would be a great idea to stay a couple of nights to explore the surroundings. Here are a few recommended hotels.
🏨 Hameki
Great laid-back luxury glamping just outside Homun downtown. Guests also love their pool and deck chairs and the on-site restaurant offering also vegan dishes.
👉🏽 Check availability and rates on Booking.com
🏨 Hotel Santa Maria
Simple local hotel for a budget stay. The rooms are not fancy but spacious and clean. They have a pool and an indoor restaurant with local dishes.
👉🏽 Check availability and rates on Booking.com
🏨 Reset Atemporal
Interesting luxury stay just outside Homun downtown. This new hotel offer luxurious cabañas equipped with thoughtful details.
👉🏽 Check availability and rates on Booking.com
